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BASIC
ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS
Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Green
and Black Wires)
To maintain optimum performance of your 5.0 L check
the setting of the throttle position (located on
the
top of the throttle body). Accurate adjustment
will provide smooth idle and good acceleration.
Using
a digital
volt meter or a multi-meter with the ignition key
in the "on" position; but with the engine
off, voltage should read between .997-999; 1.1
to 1.25 for
supercharged cars. Adjust (elongate the slots if
necessary) the sensor to obtain proper setting
by loosening the
mounting screws and moving the sensor side to side.
Ignition Timing
Most 5.0 Mustangs are delivered from the factory
with the ignition timing set from 4-6° BTDC (Before Top
Dead Center). Stock is 10°. With premium fuel, start
at 13°-14°. If you have no detonation, increase
upward. Timing is free horsepower and will run better
up to 19°-21° of timing.
Camshaft Installation
When installing a flat tappet cam (non-roller) it is
important to install new tappets or lifters, valve springs
and retainers. When installing a roller cam, '85 and
up H.O. blocks, you don't have to change the lifters
until 40,000 miles unless the lifters show wear. Also,
if your motor has high mileage or if you are changing
to a cam with very high lift, change your valve springs.
- Always
use the right type of lifters or tappets with your
cam.
- Always
match your parts. One of the biggest mistakes is
the installation of a cam that is too big (too much
lift and duration).
- Flat
tappets cams must use prelube before installation.
Roller cams are made from steel billet and only
require a generous coating of fresh engine oil.
Transmission
Maintenance
We suggest changing the fluid in a T-5 transmission
at least every 10,000 miles, more often if the car is
driven hard. It requires less than 3 quarts of Dextron-Mercon
automotive transmission
fluid - nothing else can be used. You can use synthetic
Dextron-Mercon.
Cylinder Head Torque
When tightening head bolts, torque the upper bolts (near
the intake manifold) to 80 ft-lbs and the lower bolts
near the exhaust manifolds to 72 ft-lbs. When you tighten
the intake manifold, this tends to generate a lot of
upward pressure on the heads. The additional tightening
of the upper bolts compensates for the upward pressure.
Be sure to coat head bolts or studs with non-synthetic
oil before installation.
Roller Rockers
The selection of rocker arms will be dictated by the
type of camshaft and heads. Any 5.0 worth its weight
should use roller rockers. Stock rockers are adequate
at best. They are designed as 1.60 but seldom are. Stock
rockers vary in ratio from 1.45 to 1.66 and flex too
much. When installing roller
rockers, be sure to remove the valve cover baffle on
the right hand side of the valve cover. And shim the
rocker arms if necessary.
Silencer Removal
One of the easiest modifications you can make on an
'86-93 5.0 Mustang is to remove the air
cleaner silencer as soon as you get it. The air silencer
is located behind the right hand side fender. Removal
allows increased air flow to the engine. Also, install
a K&N air filter as it will be the last filter
you buy and will increase performance.
Keeping Cool
A cooler engine produces more power. The stock 5.0
Mustang thermostat is rated at 192° which is fine for most.
Installing a 180° thermostat will cause the engine
to run slightly richer thus
producing more power. Don't install a thermostat cooler
than 180° or remove it altogether.
This will prevent the engine from reaching proper operating
temperature and performance will suffer.
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators
Fuel starvation with modified 5.0 Mustangs is a common
problem. By installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator
you'll be able to increase pressure from the 38-39 lbs
factory setting up to 55 lbs (if needed).
Fuel System
One of the most commonly overlooked upgrades is the
fuel pump. When changing intakes, heads or injectors,
depending on modifications, the pump will need to be
changed to a 110 lph or 155 lph. If you use a supercharger
or nitrous, a 155 lph pump minimum will be required. Depending
on boost levels or nitrous levels, a 190 lph pump may
be required. When upgrading the pump, it's recommended
to change the regulator to an adjustable type with a
gauge so exact fuel pressure can be set and monitored.
Exhaust Improvements
One of the most restrictive elements of a stock 5.0
Mustang is the factory exhaust system. With all the
dimples and bends in the factory headers and pipes,
unnecessary back pressure is created in the exhaust
system. Installing headers and a performance exhaust
system will not only make your Mustang sound better
but the performance gains are quite noticeable.
Ignition
When supercharging your mustang, it is necessary to
upgrade your ignition system. With the high boost levels,
a stock coil cannot keep up with the requirements to
properly fire the increased
mixture. A MSD multiple spark box will be required along
with a high performance coil (like a Motorsport or MSD).
If you have a lot of modifications (cam, heads, intake,
injectors, and NOS or a supercharger) the addition of
the Motorsport RPM extender can increase the power output
dramatically by increasing air/fuel ratio and RPM limit.
(top)
SUSPENSION
IMPROVEMENTS
Dieting Time
Mustangs are very weight conscious! Removing any unnecessary
weight will only help
performance. Hint: Try removing the insulation under
the carpeting in the hatch area on hatchback models.
This is usually about 15-20 lbs.
Strut Removal
When removing stock McPherson struts make sure you
have the proper "slotted socket" to hold
the upper shaft in position. It's available through
Craftsman and other leading tool manufacturers.
Front Suspension Alignment
Most Mustangs are delivered from the factory with
the camber set at 0° or slightly negative. Ideal
setting is -3/4° to -1° for aggressive street
driving. This will reduce the "feathering" effect
commonly seen on the outside edge of the tires while
improving handling through corners.
Lowered Mustangs
Many Mustang owners like to lower their Mustang for
improved handling and appearance. As with anything,
there is a right way and a wrong way. Cutting the
stock springs will certainly lower the car but handling
will suffer. We suggest installing aftermarket springs
made specifically for this purpose. Several varieties
are available and directly replace the stock springs.
Lowering a Mustang more than 1 1/2" lower
than stock is not recommended without major suspension
modifications. The stock suspension geometry is not
designed to operate at that level.
Chassis Stiffening
If you drive your Mustang on a regular basis, consider
installing subframe connectors. Not only will they
stiffen the chassis (reducing body flex), but our
subframe connectors support the floor pan at the
seat
mounting area which has been know to stretch and
tear over time. Our strut tower brace and lower chassis
will reduce flex and stiffen the front suspension
(keeping the front end tighter during cornering).
(top)
DRIVETRAIN
IMPROVEMENTS
Hurst Shifters
Installing a Hurst shifter is the best preventive
maintenance you can perform on a T-5 transmission.
The adjustable positive stops prevent over-shifting
and bending the shift forks. When installing a Hurst
shifter be sure to properly adjust the positive stops.
Incorrect adjustment will result in the transmission "popping" out
of gear or bent shift forks. (top)
STEERED
STRAIGHT
Increasing steering accuracy is easy on
lowered Fox Mustangs with a simple bushing change
(Taken from June 1993 Super Ford article by Earl
Davis)
What is bump steer and where does it come from? Bump
steer is not the name of a new carnival ride although
it could describe the way some people drive. Bump
steer is the term used to describe the steering misalignment
or geometric inaccuracies resulting from suspension
travel. Okay, so that doesn't exactly make the concept
of bump steer clarion clear in your mind. Think of
it this way. Bump steer is any unwanted toeing in
or out of the front wheels as the suspension is compressed
or extended. It is caused by the geometry or relationship,
between the steering linkage (rack, tie-rod ends)
and the suspension (especially the steering knuckle,
upright or whatever you want to call the piece where
the tie rod end attaches to the suspension). If the
steering and suspension move in different arcs (and
they always do, somewhat), then the distance between
the center of the steering system and the suspension
will vary. That forces the wheel to toe in out as
the steering alternately "lengthens" or
"shortens." Then the car does not steer
accurately during cornering. Lowered cars usually
suffer
from increased bump steer because the suspension
geometry has been changed where the rack has been
lowered in
relation to the centerline of the spindle. To help
remedy this problem we offer off-set rack bushings
for '79-93 models or the 1990-93 tie-rod ends for
1979-89 models. Either solution works equally well
by itself but not together. (top)
REPLACING INSTRUMENT BEZELS
To
remove the dash cluster on a 1968 Mustang, remove
the bezel screws and then the speedometer
cable.
On some years, you may need to drop the steering
column and remove the wiring.
(top)
| HIGH
PERFORMANCE DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEMS |
| 289
V8 |
302 2V |
(click for a larger version) |
(click for a larger version) |
(top) DECAL
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
1.
Clean the area where the decals will be applied
with Windex or a soft cloth dampened with denatured
alcohol. This will remove any wax, oil or dust
particles that will prevent the decal from sticking. 2. Carefully peel the tape and decal away from the
paper backing, hold the decal in position and stick.
Rub the entire area firmly from one side to the other
with your fingertips or the sharp edge of a credit
card. The decals have a pressure sensitive adhesive
and the harder you rub the harder it sticks.
3. Remove the application tape by pulling gently
in a downward position.
Note: The decals will not adhere to a surface that
has been waxed. Remove all wax and residue with Windex
or denatured alcohol before application. After the
decals have been applied, the surface can be waxed
over. The wax will not damage the decal, but will
prevent it from sticking.
LARGE DECAL APPLICATION
For large decal application, hold the decal in position
and stick the top or one side in place. Then using
the sharp edge of a credit card working your way
from top to bottom with firm pressure to prevent
any air bubbles. To apply extra large decals we recommend
getting someone to hold the decal in position while
the other person rubs it in place. If you are uncomfortable
with the process you may consider professional installation
at your local sign shop.
(top)
MACH 1 SPOILER INSTALLATION
Click here for full instructions (with photos) on how to install a front spoiler on your Mach 1!
(top)
EMBLEM INSTALLATION
Most aftermarket or original emblems
usually have the prongs on the back along with an adhesive
backing.
In
most
cases
if your car does not have existing provisions for this
you can use a razor or Dremel tool to remove these prongs
and
use the adhesive backing for installation.
(top)
1979-2010 SUBFRAME CONNECTOR INSTALLATION
1. Subframe connectors must be installed on a level car. The best way to achieve this is by using a car ramp (as found in an alignment shop). If this is not available use four jack stands to support vehicle. The jack stands must be level with each other when supporting the vehicle; if this is not done, severe body alignment and steering problems may result after bolting or welding the subframe connectors.
2. Once the car is supported and you are able to get under the vehicle you will either weld or bolt them in place. If you will be bolting the subframes in place you will need a right angle drill gun, 3/16” and 3/8” drill bits. If you will be welding them in place you will need a welding machine (preferably a heli-arc welder), drill gun, and 3/16” drill bit. If you will be welding, make sure you cover the fuel line with a damp cloth for safety purposes and have a fire extinguisher available.
3. Mount the driver's side connector in place with larger bracket towards the back of the vehicle. Once in place and pushed up as much as possible mark the holes for drilling or weld in place. Drill holes and slide bolts in place.
4. The passenger side requires a little more work. First you must remove the triangle bracket (1993 models and earlier) that holds the fuel line in place that's located just forward of the lower control arm mount. You will need a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt. There is also a bracket holding the fuel line about 12” farther toward the back of the vehicle which also needs to have its bolt removed. Take a screwdriver and pry the plastic plugs off the fuel line toward the front of the subframe connector. Once these are removed slide the connector up into place so that the fuel line remains above the connector after you weld or bolt it into place.
5. Once the connector is welded or bolted into place you will no longer need the triangle bracket removed in the previous step. Readjust the fuel line so that the bracket farther back on the fuel line can be moved back into its original location. Drill a 3/16” hole and relocate the fuel line bracket so that is it located near the front of the subframe.
6. You are now ready to lower the vehicle. You may want to touch up the paint around the subframe connectors on the body so that rust spots don't appear.
(top)
DOUBLE CROSS SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
1. Disconnect the battery. Jack up the vehicle and support it under the suspension with jack stands;
2. Remove the bolts for one side of the midpan crossmember and sandwich the Connector between the floor pan and midpan crossmember using the existing bolts and nuts. Hand tighten. On Driver’s side, reposition brake lines around Subframe Connector by drilling small holes to remount brake line clips;
3. Using a floor jack, raise the rear end housing to approximate ride height. Remove the rear lower control arm bolt (chassis end) slowly and only far enough so that it is still half way in the lower control arm bushing. Insert a drift pin (or bolt approximately the same diameter) to hold the lower control arm in place as you remove the original bolt. Line up the hole at the end of the with the rear lower control arm hole and reinstall the bolt
4. Tighten the two midpan crossmember bolts and the rear lower controll arm bolt to factory specifications;
5. Weld connectors to subframe of the car. It may be necessary to use a jack to mate the Subframe Connector flush to floor pan in some cases;
6. Weld this tab to the factory pinch weld located underneath the car;
7. Repeat these instructions on the opposite side of the vehicle.
8. After welds have cooled, we recommend that a rubberized undercoating be applied to the welded areas to help resist rust.
(top)
CALCULATORS/DECODERS
Axle ratio/Tire size calculator
Speedometer error calculator
VIN calculator
VIN Dataplate decoder
Tire size calculator
GEAR INFO
What you will want to do is count the teeth on your drive gear, wrap a string around your new tires to figure out the revolutions per mile. Now multiply the drive gear (x) rear gear (x) tire revolutions per mile. Divide that number by 1000 and that will give you your approx. driven gear teeth needed.
Example:
drive gear teeth = 7
rear axle ratio = 3.73
tire rev. per mile = 815
7 x 3.73 x 815 / 1000 = 21.3 (21 tooth gear needed)
(top)
8-TRACK AUDIO REPAIR
http://www.8trackheaven.com/repair.html
http://www.enhancedaudio.com/8track.htm
(top)
CONVERTIBLE TOP INSTALLATION (83-90)
Old top removal:
- Open two front latches.
- Raise top halfway.
- Remove front weatherstrip and staples from top.
- Remove front side weatherstrip and quarter window weatherstrip.
- Pull away glue on quarter flaps.
- Remove tension cable on each side.
- Remove screws from two bow pockets in center.
- Remove wire-on staples and staples from rear bow.
- Peel back top, remove staples holding top of glass.
- Remove rear seat for easy access.
- From inside of car, remove bolts from trim stick.
- On inside of top, chalk mark position of top and glass on trim stick.
- Lay protective covering on trunk of car to prevent scratches.
- Lay trim stick on trunk and remove staples from glass and top. Top should now be completely removed.
New top installation:
- Close top to check bow height (which is 25 1/4"from center of rear bow to chrome on trunk).
- Lay old window on new one and mark bolt holes and staple marks.
- Staple window to trim stick and install with three bolts, then staple top to rear bow pulling side to side to eliminate wrinkles, then remove trim stick.
- Place old top on new top and mark for bolts and staples.
- Staple to trim strick in same position and bolt back on.
- Pull top forward on frame, replace cables and screw in bow pockets.
- Close frame with top pulled all the way forward.
- Chalk top to front edge of bow.
- Lift up top halfway and staple front 3/4" back from mark to make top tighter, stretch to each side.
- Glue front side of flaps and replace weatherstrip.
- With top closed, staple top to rear bow and staple wire on and tips making sure to cover staples.
- Replace rear seat.
- Car is now ready.
4.6L TECH TIPS
- The modular engines with factory forced induction like the '03 Cobra and the Lightning will benefit from improved exhaust flow.
- The X-Pipe with mandrel-bent 2 ½ inch tubes add 5-10 horsepower over the production pipes. The stainless construction of this pipe ensures it will last a long time.
- The sound of the H-Pipe is different than the X-Pipe. The H-Pipe produces a low rumble, similar to the muscle car sound of the 1960's. The X-Pipe produces a higher pitched sound, more like a european sports car.
- The 97-up mustang cooling fan and shroud flows well, and does a good job of cooling in traffic. '96 mustangs can be upgraded with the '97-up radiator, fan, and shroud for improved cooling.
- A heavy duty automatic transmission oil cooler will improve the transmission life and reduce stress on the engine as well. Transmission oil coolers are normally rated by gross vehicle weight(GVW) so the higher the value the more capacity the cooler has.
- The vortec S-trim supercharger was the first widely distributed centrifugal supercharger for the 4.6.
- The Vortec aftercooler is an air-to-water heat exchanger that will drop the discharge temperature of the supercharger air, increasing efficiency. The aftercooler is best suited to drag racing at 10 PSI or below.
- Procharger P-1SC is ATI's entry level street supercharger. Their blowers are unique in that they carry their own oil supply, rather than using the engines oil system to supply the supercharger's requirements.
- When using 99-up PI heads on your 96-98 mustang, you must also use the matching 99-up Motorsport intake manifold.
- The 5.4 liter windsor iron block is similar to the 4.6-liter version. The deck height is 10.079 versus the 8.937 inches on the 4.6L.
- The billet steel 4.6 crankshaft is manufactured from 4340 steel. The crankshafts can be ordered with various strokes and options such as knife edging and reduced journal diameters.
- Stock 4.6 liter engine uses a powdered-metal rod with a cracked cap. The unique surfaces created when the cap is cracked and sperated from the rod. This means that each cap must remain with the connecting rod it came from, for the life of the rod.
- Detonation will damage the stock piston by fracturing the ring land. The damage may go undetected for some time, since it causes no apparent noise. Eventually, oil will work past the rings into the combustion chamber, at which time the damage is usually noted.
- The factory has produced the 2-valve engine with the 11-cc dish from 92-98 and the 17cc dish since 1999. Resulting in a compression ratio of 9.3:1.
(top)
UNDERLAYMENT INSTALLATION
Through customer responses we have found, it is best that the sandy side is down to the floor pan. This is because the sandy side offers more of a solid bond if you are working with adhesive. The grainy texture helps to provide a better seal to the flat smooth floor pan.
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